There's a lot of information online on how to preserve flowers, and you'll find loads of articles on various methods of preservation. 

Unfortunately, there's also a lot of misinformation to sift through. 

You may even find longtime professional floral preservationists giving advice that directly conflicts with other professionals! 

When I decided to transition from my career from fashion to florals, I wanted the same level of training in floral preservation that I received in design school.

There aren't really any "certification" programs near me. (The closest option is an oshibana certification, and that's in Japan.) 

So I sought out the masters of floral preservation online, donned my student cap, picked up a long list of books from the library, and got to work in the garden and the studio. 

Over time, as my experience with floral preservation grew, I began to see a lot of conflicting information.

This is where as a preservationist, you'll begin to understand that the learning happens with real-life, hands-on experience.

If you've fallen in love with creating your own botanical artwork and want to know the BEST method for the kind of art you're making, you're in the right place.

I've put together this comprehensive guide with a breakdown of each method, the kind of art it's best for, and my honest, personal notes from working with it.

Let's dive in. 

The guide: every way to preserve a flower

Here's the quick version, then my notes on each one.

 

Method

Shape

Approx. time

Needs heat or power

Best for

Air-dry

3D

4-6+ weeks

No

Wreaths, dried bouquets, herbaria, bundles

Silica gel

3D

3-4+ weeks

No

3D shadow boxes, resin art

Book and brick

Flat

3–6 weeks

No

First-time pressers, pressed flower crafts

Traditional press

Flat

3-6 weeks

No

Pressed floral artwork, greeting cards, and commercial work

Microwave press

Flat

Seconds to minutes - then placed in a press 3-4 weeks

Yes

Professionals with deadlines looking for vivid color. Good for flash press method for thick flowers like sunflowers and dahlias.

Foam press

Flat

Faster than a wood press. Hours in a dehydrator and then place in a trad press

Yes

Career preservationists

Freeze-dry (home)

3D

12-24 hours

Yes

Bulk preservation 
business

Freeze-dry (commercial)

3D

12-24 hour

Yes

Bulk preservation businesses

Air-dry method

Best for: All levels of floral preservation. 3D artwork, wreaths, shadow boxes, glass herbaria, sage and selenite bundles

Air-drying is so satisfying. Your whole drying space fills with the fragrance of flowers. This was the method that I used for preservation since 2021. Air drying flowers requires a dedicated area where you can manage the light, temperature, and humidity.

Choose flowers that love this method, like strawflowers, statice, gomphrena, celosia, and grasses. You can  air-dry fleshy, moisture-rich flowers using this method, but they require a little extra care. 

If you're growing your own flowers for, plan to cut your flowers mid-morning, once the dew has evaporated. Late afternoon works too, though it can get buggy in the garden later in the day. 

After collecting, don't put your stems in water as you collect. Bundle them in groups of 10 to 12, depending on stem size. Strip away leaves from the stem to help cut down on mold. Hang the bundles upside down somewhere cool, dim, well-ventilated, and away from humidity.

Air-drying takes patience. Fleshier flowers like peonies can take 4 to 6 weeks or longer. Check your bundles often. As the stems shrink, they lose moisture, so retighten your bands to keep flowers from slipping off the line.

Note: Air-drying flowers from the market or a client. Recondition flowers before air-drying. Give them a good drink of cool water in a bucket. You can also add a few drops of vegetable glycerin to help them perk up before bundling to dry. Make sure you strip the leaves off the stems to prevent mold build up, and wipe down very well with a towel or cloth before hanging. 

Silica gel method

Best for: Professional applications of 3D botanical work and resin art 

Before you start, please protect yourself. Wear gloves and a respirator rated for the specific gel you're using, and read the gel product's safety data sheet. If you handle silica gel and resin regularly, talk with an occupational medicine doctor about safety protocols for your studio.

If you'd like to try it, a sturdy container with a snug lid is all you need to start. Pour in a shallow layer of silica gel, then gently set your flowers on top, blooms facing up. Slowly fill in around and over them until they're fully buried.

Most flowers dry within 3-4 weeks depending on the conditions of your drying space. This method requires that you also regularly check them as they dry, since some flowers left too long in silica can turn brittle. This method is not recommended for delicate flowers like pansies. 

When you lift your flowers out, the gel has soaked up all their moisture. There are some silica gel products that can be "recharged" (dried back out) before reusing. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Many gels change color to show when they're saturated and when they're ready again.

Here's a silica gel supplier I found that sells a full kit for trying this method: Wise Dry Flower Drying Box

Book and brick method

Best for: first-time pressers, thin and flat flowers, and a single keepsake bloom

This is where I started with flower pressing as a kid, and I used this method for years. I loved collecting flowers and placing them in my journal. This is a great method for foraged flowers or saving flowers from a special event and you don't have a press already on hand. 

To start: lay your flowers flat between sheets of blotting paper, 150GSM watercolor paper, or non-textured absorbent paper towel inside a heavy book. Close it, then stack more books or a brick on top.

Give it 3 to 4 weeks, swapping the paper out if it feels damp.

My honest note: moisture can stain the pages, and fleshy flowers may brown or mold. Use a book you don't mind sacrificing. This method costs nothing, as you can use items you already have on hand at home, so it's perfect for beginners or those who just want to press a few flowers at a time.

Traditional flower press

Best for: pressed floral artwork, pressed flower cards, floral decoupage, 

As of writing this article in 2026, this is the method I use most in my studio and the method that I teach in my classes. It's friendly to hobbyists and professionals alike.

This is the book and brick method elevated with a dedicated traditional press. I've also purchased a variety of presses and also spent several years producing and testing out a variety of presses to see exactly what makes a press work the best. 

I'll be including a write-up on my adventure in creating the best traditional flower press here on the journal, so make sure to sign up for my newsletter so you receive notification when that article is released. 

As a professional preservationist, I've also made the traditional press work on a deadline. I pair it with Vivid Press paper, which we source directly from the manufacturer. It pulls moisture from flowers efficiently and gently, and I can also skip the constant checking on my flowers step that takes the bulk of a preservationist's time. 

Microwave flower press

Best for: hobbyists who love to experiment, floral artists on a deadline for artwork or commissions, color retention, and fleshier flowers like sunflowers

I've only used this method a handful of times. I really loved how bright and vibrant the results were. But honestly, this method is best for someone more organized than me.

Every microwave has a different power setting, and every flower handles heat differently. So this flash-drying method takes a methodical approach.

I started a spreadsheet tracking exactly how many seconds each bloom needed at each wattage. Unless you're up for that kind of trial and error, it may not be your method.

If you love to take detailed notes, though, you'll love this one. I recommend the Microfleur press, the best press I've found for the microwave. Here are my results from some pansies I pressed with the Microfleur.


The pansy on the left was pressed in the microfleur. 

Foam press

Best for: speeding up drying and retaining color in 2D pressed artwork; advanced hobbyists and professionals

Recommended foam press: Everlasting Flowers Foam Press

Full disclosure: I haven't tried this method yet. We live out in a rural area where we experience occasional power outages and are at a high wildfire risk during the summer months, so I'm cautious to use anything that needs a heat source for a long stretch of time.

That said, I know floral preservationists who swear by it and rave about their results. If I ever try it, I'll report back.

Home freeze-dried method

Best for: 3D keepsakes like wedding bouquets for resin art and bulk preservation businesses

A freeze dryer freezes your flowers, then pulls the moisture out under a vacuum, allowing flowers to keep their full shape and retain as much of their color. This method requires a sizable investment for both the equipment and space.

Flowers can be freeze-dried in batches, with each cycle completing the preservation process in about 24 hours.

This is great for pros who have had several seasons of drying a variety of flowers and have floral preservation deadlines to meet. Freeze-dried flowers stay delicate, so handle them with care. 

Units start at around $2,000 for home freeze dry models. You can find some samples here.

Commercial freeze-dried method

Best for: a full-scale preservation business where selling preserved flowers in bulk is your main product line

The equipment and facility requirements are a major commitment and investment. Most models start at around $25,000 and upwards to $90,000.

Before investing, I would recommend building your business in your local region first to test out whether this is truly for you. Set up the foundation for your business from license and registration requirements in your local ordinance, general liability insurance, and your contract agreements dialed in for clients. 

I am not in the business of wedding floral preservation, nor am I interested in scaling our commercial product line of botanical gifts, so this method is not one that I plan to fold into the studio any time soon. 

You don't require this equipment to start. and beautiful botanical work has been made with less commercial methods for years

However,  if you are reaching the point where this kind of investment makes sense, you can find commercial machines at Botanique Preservation Equipment, Inc.

So, where should you start?

If you're brand new, start with air-dry, book or a traditional press. It's low-cost and low-mess, and it teaches you how each flower behaves. Building a relationship and connection with each flower will deepen your understanding of your art practice with the blooms. 

Here's what I've learned from years of trial and error: this practice takes time, and each flower is unique. Over time, the work will become more intuitive as you build upon your experience. 

Now tell me about you. Which method have you tried, and which one are into trying next?

I'm asking because your answers help me decide which methods to test and write about in the future. Drop a comment below, I'd love to hear from you. 

Until next time, may joy find you in the blooms. 

Charina


— Charina Cabanayan